Banana

A banana is an elongated, edible fruit – botanically a berry – produced by several kinds of large herbaceous flowering plants in the genus Musa. In some countries, bananas used for cooking may be called "plantains", distinguishing them from dessert bananas. Almost all modern edible seedless (parthenocarp) bananas come from two wild species – Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana. The scientific names of most cultivated bananas are Musa acuminata, Musa balbisiana, and Musa × paradisiaca for the hybrid Musa acuminata × M. balbisiana, depending on their genomic constitution. The old scientific name for this hybrid, Musa sapientum, is no longer used.



Musa species are native to tropical Indomalaya and Australia, and are likely to have been first domesticated in Papua New Guinea. They are grown in 135 countries, primarily for their fruit, and to a lesser extent to make fiber, banana wine, and banana beer and as ornamental plants. The world's largest producers of bananas in 2017 were India and China, which together accounted for approximately 38% of total production.


Table of Contents


Height(Avg)

2–30 ft.


Width(Avg)

1–15 ft.


Approximate pH

5.5 - 7.0


Growth Nutrition of Banana


Nutrients are most important at different growth stages.


Establishment

  • Nitrogen and Potassium – promote early growth of new plant tissue

  • Phosphorus – maximize root development and provide a strong soil reserve for crop development

  • Calcium – boost root and leaf growth and ensure high yields

  • Magnesium – fuel energy transfer within the developing tissues

  • Sulfur – maximize growth through protein formation

  • Macronutrients – to ensure tissue growth is not limited


Vegetative growth

  • Nitrogen and potassium – maintain plant growth in the built up to flowering (80% of all potassium should be applied before flowering)

  • Calcium – maximize reserves in the build up to reproductive development to provide good fruit firmness, peel integrity and transport and storage quality with minimal disease

  • Sulfur – maximize growth through protein formation

  • Magnesium – boost chlorophyll activity and N-uptake

  • Micronutrients – maximum requirements for growth peak at this time


Flowering

  • Nitrogen and potassium - to maintain growth during this critical phase

  • Phosphorus – for strong flower production

  • Calcium – in reduced amounts to maximize supplies to the fruit as it starts to form

  • Boron and Zinc – to ensure good flowering with minimal disorders

  • Micronutrients – when tissue analysis confirms deficiencies


Fruit fill - harvest

  • Nitrogen – in reduced amounts to maintain growth and fruit fill

  • Potassium – for good sugar to starch conversion and to maximize pulp weight, fruit size, TSS levels and vitamin C content

  • Calcium – for good skin finish and fruit quality

  • Magnesium – for high yields and bunch weights

Types of Banana


Plantain

At first glance, plantains (Musa paradiciaca) look like a standard bananas. However, they have a significantly higher starch content than regular bananas and are considered vegetables instead of fruits. That said, it can readily use them in desserts, so long as cook them before eating them. There's no harm in eating an uncooked plantain, but many cultures prefer them glazed or warmed.

If growing plantains at home, make sure that plant plantain trees in well-draining soil. Plantains thrive when exposed to partial sun for at least eight hours, but need to ensure that their roots don't rot.


Hardy Banana

Hardy bananas (Musa basjoo) are also known as Japanese fiber bananas and are some of the easiest bananas to grow around the world. These bananas can not only survive temperature springs and summers, but they'll continue to grow even after they've been exposed to below zero temperatures.

Hardy bananas don't need much babying to grow. Give them plenty of sunlight and an appropriate amount of mulch.


Blue Java Banana

Blue java bananas don't taste like coffee. Instead, most people love blue java bananas because they taste like ice cream! The banana's vanilla flavor and creamy fruit, combined with its strange blue peel, make it an extravagant treat for even the pickiest of palates.

Unlike many bananas, the blue java banana is relatively hardy. It can be able to grow in colder regions without worrying about losing crop. That said, these banana plants prefer well-draining soil, and should try to plant them in partial sunlight to see the most significant growth.


Cavendish Banana

The banana that many have come to know and love as a "regular" banana is, in fact, a Cavendish banana (Musa Cavendish). These bananas are primarily found in Central America, but they've become a staple crop all around the world.

It can grow through a multitude of means. Dwarf Cavendish plants, for example, can produce up to ninety bananas on each frond. Cavendish plants of all sizes prefer full sunlight and humid environments.


Musa Acuminata

Musa acuminata bananas are another of the hardier banana plants. These bananas will thrive in smaller containers, full sun, and relative heat. Even so, want to take care and ensure that these bananas' soil stays moist - they take in a lot of water and will need attention at least twice a week. On average, musa acuminata banana plants can grow between twelve and twenty feet.


Musa Balbisiana

Musa balbisiana bananas are a hybrid banana that grows in the wild. These bananas can withstand significant amount of stress courtesy of their unique genetic makeup. Much like the more recognizable species of bananas, these bananas prefer warmer, humid weather and full sunlight.


Musa Velutina

Musa velutina bananas are some of the loveliest banana plants you can grow in your yard. These plants typically don't grow over eight feet tall and sprout beautiful, pink flowers before producing their bananas. The bananas themselves are also pink and have a velvet-like skin. Unfortunately, though, these bananas aren't easy to eat - they're filled with seeds and won't make a pleasant meal.

Make sure that water and foster the plant until it's developed a sturdy root system. These banana plants prefer full fun but can grow successfully in winter-hardy zones.


Red Banana

Looking for a banana that's even sweeter than a Cavendish banana? Red bananas are softer than these well-known bananas and have a higher sugar content. As their name suggests, red bananas have a red to purple skin, and they can taste like raspberries to the uninitiated. Red banana plant will thrive in full sun, so long as it's planted in well-draining soil.


Musa Ornata

This banana plant is more of a hedge. Given the proper care, these plants can grow up to nine feet tall and seven feet wide. These plants bloom seasonally and boast showy flowers as well as edible bananas.

Musa ornata banana plants are hardier than some of their more tropical cousins. Keep the ground around the plant moist but well-draining. If live in a colder area, then bring the plant indoors during the winter months. When the plant reaches its fullest width and height, it can instead cover it with a garden-appropriate tarp to protect it from the worst of the cold.


Musa Sapientum

Musa sapientum bananas have some significant cross-over with Musa paradisiaca bananas, as many in the agriculture business refer to these bananas as the same plant. The name "musa sapientum" identifies these bananas as dessert bananas. As might expect, these bananas are especially sweet and creamy. To successfully grow musa sapientum in the yard, be sure to cultivate the seeds or sprouts in a relatively humid environment so that they can successfully take root. Once the plant's established, it can be able to transfer it outdoors or into a larger pot, so long as live in warmer climes.


Musa Sikkimensis

Anyone nervous about growing bananas in unusual climes will likely enjoy growing a musa sikkimensis plant. More commonly known as Red Tiger bananas, these plants can thrive just about anywhere so long as they're grown in moist, well-draining soil.

These bananas aren't, admittedly, great for eating. However, their spring flowers and bright red sap make them an excellent visual addition to the yard.

On average, musa sikkimensis plants can grow between twelve and twenty feet in height. These plants grow fairly quickly and prefer more shade than light.


Abaca

Abaca bananas are grown and commonly sold throughout the Philippines. While they're not as common in the West as Cavendish bananas, their popularity cannot be denied. Not only are the bananas themselves fairly popular in kitchens throughout the Philippines, Costa Rica, and Ecuador, but their fibers have been used to make rope for hundreds of years.

Abaca plants can grow to be twenty-two feet in height, but they tend to cap off at different heights depending on the climate in which they're grown. It can be able to better control the growth of Abaca plant by keeping indoors during its initial few years of growth. Afterward, it can choose to transplant a faster-growing Abaca outdoors or keep in a large pot.


Saba Banana

At first glance, saba bananas look more like clamshells than they do bananas. These bananas grow in the Philippines and thrive when grown in warm and humid environments. While you can eat these bananas raw, it's best to use them in cooked dishes. They do have thicker skins than most bananas, but this does not impact the taste.


Lady Finger Banana

Lady Finger bananas are more frequently known as baby bananas. These bananas are significantly smaller than the ones typically find in grocery store. They grow to three inches in length, at most, and are beloved for their honey-like taste.


Lady finger bananas can be found in Australia and Asia. If growing lady finger bananas, make sure that water them frequently and keep them in a warm environment.


Musa Hirta

Musa hirta bananas are more commonly known as Bornean Hairy Bananas, and as might expect, they live up to that name. While not much known is about this banana, its growths begin with a bright pink flower and evolves into heavily textured, multi-headed sprouts.


Bornean Hairy Bananas are notably more juicy than starchy, making them an unusual but welcomed departure from traditional bananas. If want to grow one of these plants in the front lawn, need to do what can to imitate Boreo's humid climate while sprouts are first growing. These banana plants top off at eight feet in height, meaning that be able to foster their growth indoors for a while before transplanting them into the yard.


Pisang Awak

These bananas are even more common than Cavendish bananas, and they're grown all around the world. The fruits these plants produce are a little thicker than the common banana, but they're easy to eat.


As suggested, Pisang Awak bananas are hardy and can grow in most environments. If live in colder climes, however, make sure that the surround the base of eventual banana tree with mulch come winter to preserve its overall health.


Scarlet Banana

Scarlet bananas are, as their name suggests, scarlet. While there are a few red bananas in circulation, these are known for their darker color and relatively controlled growth. Unlike many banana plants, these hedge-like growths tend to stop growing once they hit three feet in height. However, they can grow up to five feet in width. Despite their smaller stature, these banana plants will still produce edible fruit.

Scarlet banana plants are hardy and won't easily contract diseases. If want to add one to the yard, then want to propagate seeds indoors and keep sprouts inside until they've grown to at least two inches in height.


Goldfinger Banana

Goldfinger bananas are genetically modified bananas that were originally created by scientific teams based in Honduras. These bananas are significantly more pest-resistant than other types of bananas because they were designed to be.

Goldfinger bananas are functionally similar to Cavendish bananas. They require the same amount of sun and water to grow successfully, and they can be eaten cooked or raw.


Musa Troglodytarum

Musa troglodyyarum bananas are more commonly known as Fe'i bananas. These plants grow bananas that are brown and are prized for their taste. Having originated in the Pacific islands, these bananas now make up a significant portion of native diets and can be eaten both raw and cooked.


It can be purchase these as saplings, but anticipate a bit of growth. It's best to foster these initial saplings indoors, where can control the humidity to the banana's liking. After it's established a strong root system, it can be able to transplant it out into the yard.


Musa Nagasium

No banana plant will make quite as significant an impact on your yard as a musa nagasium. These banana plants will grow up to thirty-three feet in height and produce some of the strangest fruit that you can still call a banana. Musa nagasium plants produce clusters of purple fruits that form cylindrical points.

This banana plant makes its native home between the Himalayan mountains and Yunnan, China. That said, it tends to thrive in most warm or temperate climates. While it won't be able to eat the pseudo-stems it produces, it can still enjoy how their appearances enlivens in front lawn. Be sure to foster plant's growth and allow its root system to form before transplanting it out into the yard. If live in colder climes, it may want to keep this plant indoors for its first few years.


Musa Yunnanensis

Musa yunnanensis bananas are more commonly referred to as wild forest bananas. These bananas get their Latin name from their native orchards of Yunnan, China. While this banana is not new to the world of agriculture, it was originally identified in 2005 and since has become a better-understood addition to the Musa family.

Musa yunnanensis plants can grow up to sixteen feet tall, and their fruits are a hit with many species of bats and birds. If want to foster this plant in a humid environment and ensure that its soil remains moist before transplanting it into the yard.


Musa Ochracea

For a bit of additional color in your yard, you may want to consider musa ochracea bananas. These bananas are traditionally found in Asia's warmer climes. They produce odd, off-red, and conical growths that add a Dr. Seuss sensibility to your front yard.

Musa ochracea bananas are a relatively new addition to the banana family, as they were first discovered in 2011. At this time, it's not clear if they're the best banana plant to keep in the front yard, but their value can't be underestimated. If looking to cultivate this plant, make sure to keep it in a humid area until its roots have developed. From there, need to provide it with much the same care as other banana plants to see it flourish.


Musa Muluensis

Musa muluensis bananas are another unusual-looking banana plant that thrives on the island of Borneo. These plants can grow up to thirteen feet tall and produce finger-long, red fruit and buds.


Musa Arunachalensis

There's not much known about musa arunachalensis bananas. These bananas were newly discovered by representatives of the University of Calicut in Kerala, and it's not entirely clear how easily they can be grown in the front yard. That said, these bananas are striking to look at, with large, red, pointed flowers growing from a single stem before the bananas themselves start to grow.

Musa Maclayi


Musa Maclayi bananas are native to Papua New Guinea and prefer humid weather and warmer temperatures. Make sure that water the banana plants consistently and that they receive at least eight hours of sunlight a day.


Growing Banana Tree


1. Selecting a Planting Site


Look up area's temperature and humidity. Humidity should be at least 50% and as constant as possible. Ideal daytime temperatures are between 26–30ºC (78–86ºF), with night temperatures no lower than 20ºC (67ºF). Acceptable temperatures are warm and very rarely reach lower than 14ºC (57ºF) or higher than 34ºC (93ºF).

  • Bananas can take up to a year to produce fruit, so it's important to know what range of temperatures it will experience throughout the year.

  • If the temperature falls below 14ºC (57ºF), your banana plants will simply stop growing.

Find the sunniest area in your yard. Banana plants grow best with 12 hours of direct, bright sunlight each day. They can still grow with less (more slowly), but should determine where in the yard receives the most sun.


Choose an area with good drainage. Bananas require a lot of water, but are prone to rotting if the water does not drain adequately.

  • To test drainage, dig a hole 0.3m (1 ft.) deep, fill with water, and allow to drain. Refill once empty, then measure how much water is left after 1 hour. Approximately 7-15 cm water drainage per hour is ideal for banana plants.

  • A raised garden bed or adding 20% perlite to the soil assists drainage.

  • This is especially important if you are using a banana plant that does not yet have leaves, or had the leaves removed for shipping. Leaves help evaporate excess water.

Allow sufficient space. While banana plants are technically herbs, they are often mistaken for trees for a reason. Some varieties and individuals can reach 7.6 m (25ft.) in height, although you should check the source of your banana plant or local banana growers for a more accurate estimate for your locale and variety.

  • Each banana plant requires a hole at least 30cm(1ft.) wide and 30cm (1ft.) deep. Larger holes should be used in areas of high wind (but will require more soil).

  • Keep banana plants at least 4.5m(15ft) from trees and shrubs (not other banana plants) with large root systems that may compete with the bananas' water.

  • Multiple banana plants help each other maintain beneficial humidity and temperature levels, as long as they are planted at the correct distance. If you can, plant several plants in a clump with 2–3m(6.5–10ft.) between each one, or a large number of banana plants 3–5m(10–16ft.) from each other.

  • Dwarf varieties require less space.

Consider growing it indoors. If your outdoor environment is inadequate, you'll need an indoor location with similar requirements (12 hours bright light and constant warm temperature and humidity).

  • You'll need a large planting container sufficient for its adult size, or be willing to transplant the banana into a larger pot whenever necessary.

  • Always use a pot with a drainage hole in a location where water can drain well.

  • Consider a dwarf variety if you don't have sufficient indoor space.

  • Use half the amount of fertilizer when growing a plant indoors, or cease entirely if you don't have room for a larger plant. (This may be suitable for a houseplant you don't intend to harvest fruit from.)

2. Planting the Banana Plant


Select your planting material. You can acquire a banana sucker (small shoot from the base of a banana plant) from another grower or plant nursery, or buy one online. A banana rhizome or corm is the base from which suckers grow. Tissue cultures are produced in laboratories to create higher fruit yield. If you're transplanting a mature plant, prepare a hole appropriate to its size and have an assistant help you.

  • The best suckers to use are 1.8-2.1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant.

  • If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots.

  • A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

Trim the plant. Cut off any dead, insect-eaten, rotting or discolored sections of the plant. If most of the plant is affected, dispose of it away from other plants and find another planting material.

  • If using a sucker, remove all but a few centimeters (1–2 inches) of the roots. This will limit the chance of disease. You can also remove any leaves in excess of five and/or cut the top of the plant off with a slanting cut to increase the amount of sunlight that warms the soil for root growth and rot prevention.

Dig a hole for each plant. Remove any plants or weeds that are growing on the planting site, then dig a circular hole 30cm wide and 30 cm deep (1ft. x 1 ft.) A larger hole will provide greater support for the plant but require more soil.

  • If planting indoors, instead use a planting pot this size or larger.

Mostly fill the hole with loose, rich soil. Leave several centimeters (a few inches) of space at the top to encourage drainage.

  • Do not use potting soil, nor your regular garden soil unless you are sure it is suitable. Soil mixes intended for cacti can produce good results, or ask other growers of the same banana variety.

  • The ideal soil acidity for bananas is between pH 5.5 and 7. Acidity pH 7.5 or higher can kill the plant.

Place the plant upright in the new soil. The leaves should be pointing upward and the soil should cover the roots and 1.5–2.5cm (0.5–1 inches) of the base. Tamp the soil down to keep it in place but don't pack too firmly.


3.Caring For Your Plant


Fertilize monthly a short distance from the trunk. Use store bought fertilizer, compost, manure, or a mixture of these. Add fertilizer immediately after planting in an even ring around the banana plant and repeat at monthly intervals.

  • Young plants require 0.1–0.2kg (0.25–0.5lbs) each month, rising to 0.7–0.9kg (1.5–2 lbs) for an adult plant. Increase gradually as your plant grows.

  • If the temperature falls below 14ºC(57ºF) or if the banana plant hasn't grown since last month, skip the fertilization.

  • Fertilizers are usually labeled with three numbers (N-P-K) representing the amount of Nitrogen, Phosphorus (Potash), and Potassium. Bananas require very high amounts of Potassium, but the other nutrients are important as well. You can use a balanced fertilizer (three numbers roughly equal) or a fertilizer that addresses deficiencies in your soil.

  • Do not use manure produced in the last few weeks, as the heat it releases while decomposing can damage the plant.

Water frequently but avoid overwatering. Underwatering is a common cause of banana plant death, but overwatering can cause the roots to rot.

  • In warm growing weather without rain, you may need to water your plant daily, but only if the top 1.5–3 cm (0.5–1 in.) of soil is dry. Test with your finger before watering.

  • Reduce the amount of water per session if the plant is sitting in water for long periods. (That can cause root rot).

  • In cooler temperatures when the banana is barely growing, you may only need to water once every week or two. Remember to check soil moisture.

  • Leaves help evaporate excess moisture, so be careful not to soak (just moisten) a young plant that has not yet grown leaves.

  • Water the ring of fertilizer as well to help it soak into the soil.

Add mulch. Remove dead leaves and banana plants and chop them up to place around the live plants. Other yard waste and wood ash can also be added to return nutrients to the soil.

  • Check the mulch regularly and remove any weeds that are growing. These can compete with the banana plant.

Keep an eye out for discolorations, dying leaves, and pests. If diseased plants are discovered, identify and treat them immediately, or uproot them. Insect pests should also be controlled as soon as they are found. Nitrogen and potassium deficiencies are the two most common nutritional problems for bananas, so learn to recognize the signs.

  • Signs of nitrogen (N) deficiency: very small or pale green leaves; reddish pink leaf sheathes; poor growth rate; small fruit bunches.

  • Signs of potassium (K) deficiency: rapid appearance of orange/yellow color on leaves followed by leaf death; small or broken leaves; delayed flowering; small fruit bunches.

  • Examples of major plant diseases include: Bacterial Wilt/Moko Disease; Panama Disease/Fusarium Wilt; Banana Bunchy Top; Blackhead/Root Rot/Toppling Disease; and Black Leaf Streak.

  • Examples of major plant pests include: Corn Weevil; Banana Aphid; Mealy Bugs. Fruit pests include: Flower Thrips; Red Rust Thrips; and Scarring Weevil.

De-sucker your plants. Once your plant is mature and has several suckers, remove all but one to improve fruit yield and plant health.

  • Cut all but one sucker off at ground level and cover the exposed plant with soil. Repeat with a deeper cut if they grow back.

  • The surviving sucker is called the follower and will replace the mother plant after it dies.

  • Exceptionally healthy plants can support two followers.

Support the plant to avoid toppling of the plant due to strong wind or bunch weight. There are 3 easy ways of doing it:

  • Wire/Rope and Bottle Method: Cut off the bottom of a plastic bottle. Insert a very long wire/very strong twine through the mouth and bottom of the bottle. Crunch the bottle to make it bendable and soft. Prop up the banana stem on the bottle, and use the wire to pull the stem slightly more upright. Tie the write to a strong support.

  • Single Bamboo Method: Use a 3m (10') long bamboo pole or other strong, durable material. Cut a piece of Y-shaped wood 10cm (4") thick and 60cm (2') wide. Let the stem rest on the middle of the "Y" and push the bamboo upwards a little bit so the stem is wedged into the "Y" tightly. Bury the other end of the bamboo (the base) deeply into the ground. Tamp very firmly.

  • Double Bamboo Method: Use two 3m (10') long bamboo poles. On one end of the poles, tie them together with strong wire 30 cm (1') from the end. Open up the poles to form a letter "X". Let the stem rest on the short end, push upwards a little bit to create pressure, and bury the other ends of both poles. Tamp very firmly.

Provide overwinter care. If temperature during winter months falls too low for your plant, there are several ways to care for it:

  • Cover the stem with a blanket or soil. If there is no frost and the plant is still small, this may be adequate protection until the temperature rises high enough for it to grow again.

  • Store the plant inside. Uprooting the entire plant, removing the leaves, and store in moist sand in a heated indoor area. Do not water or fertilize; the plant will go dormant until you're ready to plant it outside again.

  • Grow the plant inside. This will require a large pot with drainage hole. If you don't want to grow your banana too big for your pot, you may need to cease or reduce the fertilizer treatments.

  • Salvage pieces to plant later. If frost or cold has killed most of your plant, chances are the suckers and corm at the base are still usable. Cut these away from the dead portion and store them in their own small pots to plant outside later.

4. Nurturing and Harvesting Fruit


Wait for the purple flower to emerge. The typical banana plant flowers in 6-7 months under ideal conditions, but may take up to a year depending on the climate.

  • Never remove the leaves around the flower, as they protect it from the sun.

  • Do not confuse this with the Banana Bunchy Top Virus. See Tips below.

Wait for the petals to withdraw and reveal bananas. This may take an additional 2 months or longer. Each connected cluster of bananas is called a "hand" and each individual banana, a "finger". The entire stem containing several hands is called a bunch.


Once all bunches are revealed, remove the extra portions. The remaining flower bud and/or tiny extra banana hand are the sterile male portions of the plant. The hand should wither off on its own, but removing the flower bud will cause the plant to put more energy into growing fruit.

  • The male portion of the flower is called the "banana heart". Some varieties of banana plants produce edible banana flowers that are popular in Southeast Asian cuisine, but not all are suitable for consumption. Most flowers will fall off and die before harvest.

  • Use a stick to prop up the plant if the bunches are dragging it down.

Cover the bunch with plastic covers. This will protect the fruit from insects and other dangers, but they must be open at both ends to allow adequate air and water flow.

  • Tie the nylon or plastic sack with soft twine several inches from the first hand.

Harvest bananas when the flowers or plant are dying. The small flower at the tip of each banana will become dry and easily rub off, or the banana plant will lose most of its leaves. This is a good time to harvest the fruit.

  • Cut a notch halfway into the tree, opposite the side of the bunch.

  • Carefully let the tree bend and cut off the bunch.

  • The fruit will ripen quickly once harvested, so you may want to pick some well in advance of harvesting so you don't end up with excess fruit that will go to waste.

Cut the stem of the tree and prepare the next sucker. Remove the top half of the banana stem once you harvest the fruit. Desucker the base using the same process as you have while caring for your plant.

  • Remember to leave one sucker to replace the now-dying mother plant.

Benefits of Banana Tree


Every part of the banana is packed with nutrition and health benefits. This humble plant, with its flower, stem, fruit and leaf, can be consumed in different ways for overall wellness.


The banana fruit

The fruit is a source of vital nutrients. It is also a great digestive, which aids bowel movement and contains good fibre for your gut. Rich in vitamin B6 as well as vitamin C, it helps your body absorb iron better, increasing the haemoglobin count and overall blood and cardiovascular health. It is great for pregnant women to eat, as it aids foetal health. It is enriched with potassium as well and is effective to treat cholesterol and high blood pressure. Bananas also relieve stomach issues like constipation and stomach ulcers.


The banana flower

The flower is good for people looking to prevent and control type 2 diabetes because it balances out blood sugar levels in the body. It is also antioxidant-rich, making it ideal for cell health and anti-ageing. It contains a host of essential vitamins and amino acids, is low in calories, and boost metabolism. It is also great for the overall wellness of the reproductive organs, aiding breastfeeding moms and keeping infections at bay.


The banana stem

Consumed with fibre, banana stem slows down the release of sugar and fats stored in the body’s cells. The juice of the banana stem helps in flushing out toxins from the body. It is a diuretic, and one of the most effective ways to cleanse your system from ailments. Drinking a glass of banana stem juice mixed with a few drops of lime juice every day prevents the formation of kidney stones and relieves Urinary Tract Infection (UTI). If you’ve got frequent problems with acidity, banana stem juice helps in regulating the acidic levels in your body and restoring balance. It provides relief from heartburn and discomfort and burning in the tummy.


The raw banana

Raw bananas are an excellent way to get all the benefits of the banana, with lesser natural sugars. They are beneficial for diabetics due to the presence of resistant starches that don’t digest too easily. They’re fibre-rich and keep irritable bowel syndrome at bay, and are good for heart health. They’re also good for overall mental and emotional wellness.


The banana leaf

While the banana leaf itself is not typically edible, eating off it has great health benefits, which have been propagated for thousands of years. This is because the leaves contain polyphenols like EGCG (the same compound that green tea is famous for), which the food absorbs and imparts to the body. This ensures cell health and digestive health, besides being a great antibacterial. It’s also great for the environment!


Common Pests & Plant Diseases


Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:

  • Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.

  • Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.

  • Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.

  • Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.

  • Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.

  • Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.


There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.


Uses of Banana Tree

  • You can eat edible sweet bananas.

  • You can eat edible banana fruit peels.

  • You can even eat the stem.

  • You can use stem fibres as natural craft materials.

  • You can use banana plant fibres to make garments.

  • Banana leaves can be used as natural leaf platters.

  • Steamed banana leaves can be used for packing your lunch.

  • You can use steamed banana leaves to make wrapped desserts.

  • Banana flowers are edible.

  • Banana plant rhizomes have many medicinal uses.



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